A trip to Sonoma County is a treat anytime of the year—but there is something particularly special about Sonoma in the fall. The temperatures have cooled down without being too brisk, the leaves are turning colors and the excitement of the grape harvest hangs in the air.

On my recent trip to Sonoma County, I got the chance to visit three excellent wineries, all while taking in the sights, sounds and tastes of wine country in autumn. 

There are literally hundreds of excellent wineries to choose from in the county. This time, I chose The Donum Estate, Ram’s Gate Winery and Gloria Ferrer Caves and Vineyards with the help of my tour guide, Michael Lagau, owner of San Francisco-based Bin 415, which specializes in sommelier-led private wine tours in a Mercedes Sedan or SUV. The wineries that Bin 415 and his team of wine concierges arrange visits to give unique insight into behind-the-scenes experiences and more. 

“It is unusual for the tour industry to have certified sommeliers as your driver,” said Lagau. “All of us have extensive fine dining and luxury hospitality backgrounds. I wanted to add that knowledge and style of hospitality to the wine tour experience.” Having a sommelier as your driver gives guests access to as much information about wine or the area as they would like. “Just like having a sommelier choose your wine in a restaurant, it’s great to have the option of a sommelier choose the wineries that best suit your palate and style of experience you are looking for,” said Lagau.
The Donum Estate
The first stop on my recent wine tasting adventure was The Donum Estate, and it did not disappoint! Lagau suggested I visit Donum Estate because it is considered a top pinot noir producer. And those pinots pair perfectly with the estate’s collection of almost 40 pieces of sophisticated art, placed thoughtfully across the 200 acres.

Donum has a narrow, streamlined focus when it comes to wine: single-vineyard estate wines sourced from the Russian River Valley, the Anderson Valley and Carneros. The winery is owned by Allan and Mei Warburg, and managed by president, Anne Moller-Racke.

“Starting in the vineyard, Pinot Noir is the variety that showcases the grower’s touch the most,” said Moller-Racke. “It is the variety that demands attention.  Being more thin-skinned, you have to pamper it through the growing season. I love Pinot Noir as it works with so many foods, from fish to meat.”

Originally from Germany, Moller-Racke followed the vintner’s call to California in the early 1980s. She gave me a private tour the day I visited Donum, pointing out both the large-scale contemporary sculptures and the 150-year-old olive trees. Some of the art came from recognizable names like Ai Weiwei, Keith Haring and Tracey Emin—and the collection continues to grow, with new works by Doug Aitken and Subodh Gupta expected later this year.

“I like all of our art for different reasons – just like my Pinots. If I have to trim it to two sculptures, I think it would be Sanna, by Jaume Plensa, the beautiful face greeting you and setting the mood for your experience here at Donum,” said Moller-Racke. “Second would be the Crouching Spider by Louise Bourgeois. I love that the piece was done by a woman, that it is so connected with sustainable farming, and it is so well done, organic and elegant at the same time.”
One of the most popular pieces at Donum is called “Love Me”, a giant sculpture of a heart in polished mirrored steel by artist Richard Hudson. 

After exploring the vast outdoor art gallery, I had worked up a thirst and was ready to try some wines. The tasting experience is 60-90 minutes, for smaller groups up to 7 guests. Guests will taste 5 of their Estate Pinot Noirs and Chardonnays.  The tasting is guided by one of their hosts. “The experience is very exclusive as we can only host a few tastings per day,” said Moller-Racke. After the tasting, the host will guide a walk through the sculpture park depending on the guest’s interest and time and weather-permitting.

The Donum Estate stands out in Sonoma County for its dedication to pinot noir and its impressive art collection. If you are looking for a break from the mold, this is the place to go on your next fall trip to Sonoma.
Ram’s Gate Winery
After taking one last look at my favorite Donum Estate sculptures, it was time to head off to Ram’s Gate Winery for a sumptuous autumn lunch and wine pairing. Located at the entrance to the Carneros wine region in Sonoma, the winery is set in rolling hills with rich soil. Guests from Marin and San Francisco, in particular, appreciate the close proximity and stylish environment while experiencing well-crafted wines by the fire on a cool autumn day or outside with a view. 

“The winery offers an unparalleled experience for guests to taste vineyard designated wines alongside tasting menus which rival some of the best wine country restaurants,” said managing director Dilushka Wanigatunga.“The winery welcomes guests to wander amongst the vines or down to the pond with a glass of wine and enjoy the views.” 

Before even taking a sip, I could already sense the thoughtfulness that went into Ram’s Gate –  designed by Howard Backen. The award-winning architect showcases natural landscapes and brings a modern look to traditional places, which shows in the sweeping tasting rooms.

Interior designer Orlando Diaz-Azcuy put his own touch on the space, blending vintage pieces with modern twists for a unique look and feel.
After admiring the stunning architecture and design, I was ready to try some wines and delicious food. I was invited to experience Chef Stacey Combs’ Seasonal Pairing, ($130 pp) which offered five courses of delicious food paired with Ram’s Gate Single-Vineyard wines. 

Every course was delicious. We started with a duo of oysters and blanc de noir; Japanese sweet potato and chardonnay; porcini fettuccini and pinot noir; lamb chops and syrah and chocolate espresso mousse and cabernet sauvignon. If you’re interested in the Seasonal Pairing – note that the pairing fee is waived upon joining membership or with a six-bottle purchase at the conclusion of the experience.

This food and wine pairing was amazing, but if you’re not looking for a dining experience, then go with the Gateway Tasting. This guided four-wine flight includes tastings from both the appellation and single vineyard collections.The Gateway costs $40 per person, but the fee is waived with a two-bottle purchase. 

Gloria Ferrer Caves & Vineyards
After picking out a couple of bottles to bring home from Ram’s Gate, we were on our way to the final winery of the day: Gloria Ferrer Caves & Vineyards. It’s there we enjoyed bubbles atop their outdoor Vista Terrace with incredible vineyard views.

Founded by the Ferrer family of Spain, the Gloria Ferrer Winery opened in 1986, and specializes in méthode traditionelle sparkling wines. The Ferrer family has been making wine since the 1500s, with a Barcelona estate well-known for producing Catalonian sparkling wine. At the Gloria Ferrer estate, the wines are pure California, but the winery and the culture is a charismatic blend of the Ferrer’s vibrant Spanish tradition and casual Sonoma County elegance.   

After enjoying a guided tour of both the winery and the caves, you can settle in for a tasting at this historic Carneros producer. “Our most popular tasting experience at Gloria Ferrer is the Bubbles & Bites pairing – a semi-private food and wine pairing exploration we offer which includes a tour. Space is limited and it’s very popular so we always recommend booking early and it does require 72 hours advance notice,” said Toni Benton, Director of Hospitality. This in-depth, semi-private tour experience will leave you with a strong understanding of how Pinot Noir and Chardonnay grapes are transformed into delicate bubbles and estate grown varietal wines.  It includes four wines, each expertly paired with a delicious seasonal bite. 

In addition to sparkling wines, Gloria Ferrer also produces a variety of Pinot Noirs and white wines, making it a great tasting destination for big groups with varying tastes. And, if you like a particular wine style at Gloria Ferrer, you can opt to enjoy it by the glass or share a whole bottle with friends. A selection of fine cheeses, chocolates and snacks round-out the tasting options. “A glass of sparkling wine with a stunning view is the perfect way to end a day of wine tasting. At Gloria Ferrer, guests can enjoy bubbles from their hilltop terrace overlooking the vineyards,” said Lagau. 

Time to say goodbye
Each winery I visited this trip was enhanced by the scenic fall foliage and moderate temperatures. If you can only take one short trip in the coming months, it’s hard to beat Wine Country.

“Fall is such a vibrant time in Sonoma Wine Country, you should enjoy with hikes in the colorful parks and vineyards, wine tasting, and shopping in the many locally owned boutiques, said Birgitt Vaughan, Director of Global Media Relations for Sonoma County Tourism. “Come winter, Sonoma County’s rolling hills and pastures are lush green, while the dormant vineyards are bursting with yellow color of wild mustard blooms under a blue sky.”

I’m sure I will visit Donum Estate, Ram’s Gate Winery and Gloria Ferrer Caves and Vineyards again—but I also can’t wait to explore more of the never-ending winery options in this rich, abundant region. I look forward to seeing what the experts at Bin 415 might introduce me to next time for a late Fall and Winter trip!

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